Elevating the Human-Computer Interface Through Mechanical Keyboards

My Lemokey P1 Pro 75% keyboard, customized with Gateron Baby Kangaroo 2.0 tactile switches

My Journey and Comprehensive Introduction to Mechanical Keyboards

Introduction

We all use keyboards daily for personal tasks, entertainment, education, and work. A keyboard is the primary interface between our human intentions and the digital world. Despite its significance, many of us have spent decades using the cheap plastic membrane keyboards that came bundled with our computer or were provided to us by our IT departments.

I work in IT, and upon reflection, I don’t think that I’ve ever specifically purchased a keyboard before my recent interest in mechanical keyboards. Whenever I needed a new one, there were always stacks of cheap OEM keyboards from Dell, Lenovo, or whatever vendor my company happened to be using at the time.

I don’t quite remember what first sparked my desire to improve my keyboard experience, but once I took the plunge into mechanical keyboards, I was hooked, and couldn’t imagine going back. I never imagined that typing could become so enjoyable, thanks to the right feel, sound, and aesthetic.

I found the typing practice/competition web app MonkeyType.com and over the course of 1 month, improved by typing from and average of 50 words per minute, to 85 words per minute (a 70% improvement), while also increasing my accuracy. I’m not fast, but happy with my progress.

My typing speed and accuracy over a 1 month time span.

I’ve purchased and customized a few boards now, and along the way I was surprised to learn how complex mechanical keyboards can be. Of course, you can simply hop on Amazon, buy a mechanical keyboard, and likely enhance your experience. However, to truly get the most out of it, it’s worth taking some time to learn about the various options available. This knowledge will help you decide what’s ultimately best for you.

In this article, I aim to provide the background information you need to understand the many options and considerations involved in selecting and customizing a keyboard that suits your personal preferences and use case.

My stock Rainy75 Pro with Kailh Cocoa linear switches

Why Consider Switching to a Mechanical Keyboard?

Typing Feel & Feedback

Individual Switches: Unlike membrane keyboards, each key in a mechanical keyboard has its own switch, which can produce a defined tactile bump or a smooth press. This consistency can enhance typing accuracy and general comfort, especially over long sessions.
Improved Responsiveness: Some mechanical switches actuate (register a press) higher in the keystroke, enabling faster response times. Gamers often appreciate the speed of linear switches, while typists like the precise bump and feedback of tactile switches.

Durability

High Keypress Ratings: Mechanical switches typically last between 50 and 100 million keypresses (versus around 5 million for many membrane keyboards).
Replaceable Parts: You can often replace individual switches, keycaps, stabilizers, or even the PCB on many mechanical keyboards, making them more repairable and longer-lasting overall.

Customization and Comfort

Tailored Sound & Feel: Want a classic “clicky” sound or a deep “thock?” Need to keep things quiet at the office? You can choose your ideal switch and keyboard dampening methods to match your environment and preference.
Ergonomics: Different keyboard sizes, heights, and keycap profiles can significantly improve comfort and reduce strain over long hours.

The various keyboard sizes. Keyboard Images from Keychron.

Keyboard Sizes & Layouts

When transitioning to mechanical keyboards, the first decisions is choosing the layout that best suits your workflow.

Full-Size (100%)

Overview: Typically 104 (ANSI) or 105 (ISO) keys, complete with numpad, arrow keys, function row, and navigation cluster.
Who It’s For: Users who frequently input numerical data (accountants, data-entry professionals) or prefer a traditional layout.

Tenkeyless (TKL, 80%)

Overview: Removes the numpad, retaining the arrow keys, function row, and navigation cluster, usually around 87 keys in ANSI.
Why People Like It: Saves desk space and allows for a more central mouse position, potentially reducing shoulder strain.

75%

Overview: Compresses TKL further by minimizing empty space and combining some keys (e.g., navigation) into a single, tightly packed cluster.
Best For: Those who want nearly all TKL functionality in a more compact form.

65%

Overview: Omits the function row but retains dedicated arrow keys, typically with 66–68 keys.
Appeal: A sweet spot for many, balancing compactness with practical arrow navigation.

60%

Overview: Strips away the function row, arrow cluster, and navigation keys entirely, usually requiring function-layer combos to access them.
Ideal Use Cases: Minimalist setups, travelers, or those comfortable using programmed layers for frequently used functions.

ISO vs. ANSI

ANSI (American National Standards Institute): The Enter key is a wide rectangle; commonly used in the US.
ISO (International Organization for Standardization): The Enter key is tall and inverted-L shaped; common in Europe.
Key Differences: ISO layouts also have a shorter left Shift and often include an extra key between Shift and Z. Make sure your keycaps match your board’s layout.

Mechanical Switch examples. Images from Milktooth.com

Switches: The Heart of the Typing Experience

Switches dictate how each keypress feels and sounds. They’re often categorized into linear, tactile, or clicky, and there are plenty of sub-variants within each category. There seems to be hundreds of switches to choose from, and if you selected a hot-swap keyboard, swapping out switches allow you to easily change your typing experience.

Linear Switches

Feel: Smooth travel from top to bottom, no tactile bump.
Sound: Typically quieter than clicky, but can still have a noticeable bottom-out sound.
Examples: Gateron Oil King, Kailh Box Red, Gateron G Pro Yellow
Who Prefers Them: Gamers who rely on rapid, repeated presses and anyone who likes a consistent, uninterrupted keypress.

Tactile Switches

Feel: A slight bump in the middle of the keypress, offering feedback without a loud click.
Sound: Moderately soft “thock” or bump; quieter than clicky switches.
Examples: Gateron Baby Kangaroo 2.0, Holy Panda, Gazzew Boba U4T
Who Prefers Them: Typists who benefit from subtle feedback to know when a key has actuated.

Clicky Switches

Feel: A sharp tactile bump, plus an audible click sound.
Sound: Louder and more “typewriter-like” than other switch types.
Examples: Cherry MX Blue, Gateron Blue, Kailh Box Jade.
Considerations: They can be disruptive in shared offices or quiet environments.

Lubed and Pre-Lubed Switches

Purpose of Lubrication: Reduces friction and scratchiness, making keypresses smoother and often changing the pitch of the switch sound.
Pre-Lubed Options: Some manufacturers (e.g., Gateron, Durock, Keychron) produce pre-lubed switches, though the consistency can vary.

My Keychron K2 Pro 75% keyboard with cherry profile keycaps and Gateron Baby Kanaroo 2.0 tactile switches

PCB and Board Types

The Printed Circuit Board (PCB) is the brain of the keyboard, determining what layout you can use, which firmware is compatible, and how easy it is to change switches.

Hot-Swap PCB

Overview: Switches sit in special sockets, allowing for tool-less replacement without soldering.
Advantages: Effortless switch experimentation, great for beginners or frequent switch-swappers.
Disadvantages: Sockets can be somewhat fragile, and hot-swap PCBs may have fewer layout options.

Soldered PCB

Overview: Each switch is soldered to the board.
Advantages: Typically very durable, often with more flexible layout.
Disadvantages: Requires soldering skills and tools if you want to swap switches, which is more time-consuming.

Flex Cut

Purpose: Strategically placed cutouts in the PCB or plate to allow slight flex when typing.
Result: A softer, more cushioned feel and potentially a more muted sound if combined with foam or gasket mounting.

Exploded via of a mechanical keyboard. Image from TechWithTech

Mounting Styles & Case Materials

Mounting style, how the PCB/plate assembly attaches to the case, affects both the feel and sound of your keyboard.

Tray Mount

How It Works: The PCB is screwed into standoffs in the bottom case (the “tray”).
Characteristics: Can be more “hollow” or “pingy” if undampened, though foam mods can help. Common in mid-tier or budget boards.

Top Mount

How It Works: The plate is screwed into the top frame of the keyboard case.
Characteristics: Typically more consistent and stable than tray mount, with moderate firmness.

Gasket Mount

How It Works: The plate (and sometimes PCB) is sandwiched between gasket materials (e.g., silicone, PORON foam), isolating it from direct contact with the case.
Characteristics: Offers a cushioned, flexible typing experience and can eliminate metal-on-metal contact for improved acoustics.

Case Materials

Aluminum: Often premium, can produce a characteristic metallic resonance if not dampened.
Plastic (ABS/Polycarbonate): Warmer, more muted sound; can be quite sturdy in higher-end forms.
Acrylic: Translucent, can diffuse lighting beautifully, provides a softer typing feel.
Others: Wood, carbon fiber, brass accents, often used in niche or custom builds for unique aesthetics.

Keycaps

Keycaps dramatically influence both typing feel and sound, as well as the overall look of your keyboard.

Materials

ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene)

Common in many pre-built boards.
Can develop “shine” over time from wear and finger oils.
Often features sharper, more vibrant colors and legends.

PBT (Polybutylene Terephthalate)

Durable and more resistant to wear and shine.
Slightly rougher texture and generally deeper sound when typing.
Sometimes limited in color vibrancy compared to ABS.

Legend Printing

Double Shot

Two layers of plastic; the legend is part of the keycap, so it never fades.
Often used for RGB shine-through keycaps.

Dye Sublimation

Heat transfers dye into the plastic.
Durable, but typically used on lighter-colored caps with darker legends.

Keycap Profiles

OEM: Standard height in many mainstream keyboards. Moderate sculpt.
Cherry: Lower height and sculpt, often considered more ergonomic by enthusiasts.
SA: Tall, spherical tops, known for a signature “thock” sound.
OSA: Similar shape to SA but slightly lower profile, bridging the gap between SA and OEM.

My Keychron K2 Max 75% keyboard with cherry profile keycaps and Super Banana tactile switches

Backlighting

Types of Illumination

RGB Backlighting: Dynamic color control on a per-key or zone basis.
White Backlighting: Simple, professional look.
No Backlighting: lower cost and cleaner aesthetic.

LED Orientation

North-Facing: Traditional orientation; can sometimes cause interference with certain low-profile keycaps (like Cherry).
South-Facing: Avoids interference and generally offers more even lighting coverage, but can result in uneven lighting of the legends shine-through keycaps.

Connectivity Options

Wired (USB): Low latency, no battery concerns, the best choice for gaming.
Bluetooth: Handy for multi-device setups (e.g., switching between a laptop, tablet, or phone).
2.4 GHz Wireless “G”: Low-latency wireless often used by gaming-focused manufacturers. Requires a USB dongle, but tends to be more responsive than Bluetooth.

Sound and Acoustic Dampening

Sound Profiles & Terminology

“Thocky”: A deeper, more resonant sound, often associated with lubed tactile or linear switches, thicker keycaps, and well-dampened cases.
“Clacky”: A higher-pitched, sharper noise, common with thinner plastic keycaps or clicky switches.
“Marbly” / “Creamy”: Subjective descriptors often referring to a smooth, mid-pitched sound that resonates slightly in the case.

Dampening Techniques

Case Foam: Placed under the PCB to reduce hollow echo.
Plate Foam: Sandwiched between the plate and PCB to minimize plate resonance.
Films: Thin plastic sheets that changes the sound.
Tape Mod: Layering painter’s tape on the back of the PCB to subtly alter acoustics and “thock” profile.

Silent Switches

Mechanism: Built-in rubber dampeners reduce noise on downstroke and upstroke.
Use Case: Ideal for offices or shared environments where clicky switches might be too loud.

Configuring your keyboard with VIA https://usevia.app/

Firmware and Software

Software allows you to remap the keys, create macros or change the lighting effects.

QMK (Quantum Mechanical Keyboard)

Open-Source: Vast community support and frequent updates.
Capabilities: Per-key remapping, layers, macros, advanced lighting controls.
Setup: Requires compiling and flashing firmware; includes tools like QMK Toolbox.

VIA

Graphical Interface for QMK: Once a keyboard is flashed with VIA-compatible firmware, you can remap keys, set macros, and tweak lighting live, no recompilation needed.
Ease of Use: Perfect for those who want QMK-like power without editing code.

Proprietary Software

Advantages/Disadvantages: Generally more user-friendly but brand-locked and may have fewer advanced customization features compared to QMK/VIA.

Windows vs. macOS Considerations

Modifier Keys: macOS keyboards typically label “Option” and “Command,” whereas Windows keyboards label “Alt” and “Win.” Some boards or keycap sets include macOS legends.
Function Row Defaults: macOS often uses F1–F12 for volume, brightness, and other system controls.
Remapping: Both Windows and macOS allow key remaps in OS settings, but QMK/VIA can handle deeper customizations at the firmware level.
Physical Switches / Dip Switches: Certain keyboards have toggles to physically switch between Windows and macOS layouts.

Selecting Your First (or Next) Mechanical Keyboard

Layout Choice: Decide how many keys you need. Do you want a numpad or prefer a compact footprint?
Switch Preference: Linear for smoothness, tactile for moderate feedback, clicky for maximum auditory satisfaction (or frustration in a shared office).
Hotswap vs. Soldered: Hotswap for easy switch experimentation, soldered for a potentially wider range of layouts and long-term durability.
Mount & Materials: Gasket mount for a softer, flexible typing feel, or tray mount for simplicity. Choose case and plate materials for desired resonance and aesthetic.
Keycaps: PBT for durability, ABS for vibrant colorways; consider your preferred profile (Cherry, OEM, SA, etc.).
Connectivity: Wired for low latency; Bluetooth or 2.4 GHz if you need wireless convenience.
Sound Dampening: Layer the inside of the board with foam, silicone, or films for a refined acoustic signature.
Firmware: QMK or VIA if you want to extensively remap keys or create macros. Check for brand-software compatibility if you’re in a multi-OS environment.

My Womier SK75 with Mint Blizzard linear switches

My Personal Preferences

During this journey, I’ve learned that the following configuration works the best for me.

Keyboard Layout

I’ve never used the numpad so a full size keyboard is just taking up more space for no reason. The 75% layout takes up less desk space, and it’s small enough that I can throw it in my laptop bag to take to work.

Switches

I use a controller when playing PC games (mostly Call of Duty), so most of my keyboard use is typing for work. I’ve found that a firm tactile switch gives me the feedback needed to allow me to type faster and be more accurate by making accidental fat fingering keys less likely. Of the switches I’ve tried, I think that the Gateron Baby Kangaroo v2s are the best. They are firm and have the tactile bump near the top of the keystroke. The only keyboard that I kept the stock linear switches (Kailh Cocoa) is in the Rainy 75 because that board sounds amazing stock and I didn’t want to change that.

I like experimenting with switches, so I’ll only purchase keyboards that support hot swapping switches. While I have a soldering iron, I don’t have the patience to solder over 87+ switches.

Keycaps

I found that I can type better with Cherry profile keycaps verses the OSA profile switches that comes on Keychron boards. The OSA keys are taller and more sculpted, while the Cherry’s are lower with a more square, flatter top that I found easier to type accurately on. I selected PBT over ABS to prevent the tops from getting shinny with wear.

Software Compatibility

I don’t need to remap my keys or create complex macros, but I only selected boards that are compatible with VIA so I don’t need to download any proprietary software. With VIA compatibility all that’s needed is a web browser and an internet connection.

Case Material

I like the feeling of stability and quality that a heavy CNC machined aluminum keyboard case provides.

That’s about it so far, I can’t really determine the difference between the mounting styles, gaskets and plate materials or flex cuts yet. I think those types of preferences will only develop after more experience.

Online Resources

There’s a lot to learn about mechanical keyboard and the following YouTube channels have been a great resource to get up to speed with the hobby:

There’s also a Subreddit dedicated to Mechanical Keyboards:

https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards

Final Thoughts

Switching from a traditional membrane keyboard to a mechanical one can be a transformative experience. From the tactile feel under your fingertips to the distinctive sound each keystroke makes, a mechanical keyboard can elevate your daily routine, whether you’re coding, gaming, or simply writing.

Tips for Your Journey:

Experiment: If you’re unsure which switches you’ll love, try ordering a switch tester or invest in a hot-swappable keyboard so you can quickly swap between different types.
Set a Budget: High-end custom keyboards can be expensive, but there are many affordable entry-level boards with hot-swap PCBs, decent keycaps, and solid construction.
Tweak Over Time: Mechanical keyboards are never truly “done”, there’s always room to try a new keycap set, or experiment with a new set of switches.

By understanding the vast range of options, layout sizes, switch types, mounting methods, keycap materials, and software, you’ll be well on your way to choosing (or building) the perfect keyboard for your needs. Embrace the tinkering process, and you’ll end up with a keyboard that not only improves your typing but also reflects your personal style, preferences, and creativity.

Update 2025–03–06

I realized I didn’t cover the costs aspect of getting into mechanical keyboards. All the keyboards in the original article above were over $100 for the keyboard, and for keyboards that I modified, replacement switches were probably about ~$30 for a set and ~$30 for keycaps. The Rainy 75 and Womier SK75 were perfect out of the box and I kept them stock (the Rainy 75 sounds amazing 🤗).

I had thought I had enough keyboards, but I was wrong. I’ve recently acquired a new lightweight 75% keyboard the EPOMAKER Ajazz AK820 Pro. It has a plastic case, but feels and sounds good. It’s lightweight so it’s easy to throw into my backpack to take to work. It’s full featured, RGB, control knob, and tiny color LCD status/configuration screen. It has tri-mode connectivity (wired, Bluetooth, 2.4G wireless. I like it and can say that at just $58, it must be the best budget mechanical you can get (picture of my Ajazz AK820 Pro below).

EPOMAKER Ajazz AK820 Pro with stock Ajazz Gift linear switches

Elevating the Human-Computer Interface Through Mechanical Keyboards

human-computer-interface, mechanical-keyboards, keyboard, keychron, typing

Author

Max Headroom

The first real AI living "20 Minutes into the Future". Sys-Admin and Editor at The Bitstream. Former reporter at Network 23 and Big Time TV. Not responsible for New Coke - I was just doing my job.
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